last few days

These last few days left in Paris I find myself wanting to stop and sit for a moment or two to soak in the surroundings to keep me going until the next time I return. When I get up to leave, I get the feeling that I left something behind so I turn and check. Though nothing physical is there, I feel there is a piece of me that does remain.

I'm torn between LA and Paris. Is there a way of existing in two places at once? Take the door on the left and you're in traffic and life is fast, there are all these choices and this is where I want to write and make movies. It's easier here, a comfort factor. Most of my friends are here and in 4 hours by plane I can be with family. Then the door to the right shows me simplicity and elegance; a leisurely pace, immersed in history, inspired by just about everything, everywhere. There's a slight language barrier that can be crossed with practice. This is where my creative side shines like nowhere else. I want to write and draw, design jewelry, books, journals, etc. I feel free to take risks and show a part of myself that is harder to do elsewhere.

So tomorrow as I say au revoir, I will be glad for this time here and look forward to my return.

3 days in and around Avignon

Spent Monday, Oct 9 through Wednesday, Oct 11 in and around Avignon. Could really see the Italian influences here.

Will fill in details later but here is a general itinerary:

Oct 9 -- arrived into Avignon via train around 10am, checked into hotel and lugged my bag up 4 very long and rickety flights of stairs to my closet -- I mean room. I took video to prove I'm not exaggerating. The afternoon was spent on a wine tasting tour .... Chateauneuf des Papes and Beaune des Venises (I think?). Philip was an exceptional guide and we also took a little detour to Orange and viewed the Roman ruins there. A really nice group and a fun time.

Oct 10 -- all day tour of Avignon and surrounding areas. First stop was the Lavender Museum then onto Luberon and Roussullon to check out the ocre cliffs -- gorgeous. Next stop Gordes where we were dropped off at their open market with time to shop and lunch. I bought my lunch at the market -- provencal pizza, black grapes, St Nectarine cheese, and an assortment of olives that were out of this world. As Rachel Ray would say, "Yummo!" Then we went to the Pont du Gard, very impressive water works set up long ago and beautiful to behold. Then on to Beaux and a tour of the castle there. The views were fantastic. We sped around St Remy and the hospital that Van Gogh stayed at. By the time she was telling us where it was it was long gone and we were already on our way back to Avignon. There was suppose to be a scheduled stop there but didn't happen. This tour guide was a far cry from Philip (who we ran into at Beaux). She acted as if she was being forced to do this and drove so fast the girl next to me kept getting car sick. I was a little queazy myself.

Oct 11 -- on my own to tour the Palace of the Popes -- where 9 of the Popes ruled from here instead of in Rome. They seemed to have gone back and forth until they made Rome permanent. Ran into Phillip here again. Such a nice guy; Then went to a small museum that had a special exhibit of Sisley and one painting each of Van Gogh, Modigliani, Picasso, Cezanne and a few others. Then back to view the ramparts and Saint Benezet bridge. It seems when I plan my days, I forget to include time to eat and take a break so by the time evening comes, I'm exhausted and hungry. Had dinner both nights at what I would consider atypical restaurants but the experiences were amusing.

Went to the wrong train station to catch my train back to Paris but it worked out fine and it was the first time the train wasn't full. An excellent ride back to the city in an air conditioned, comfortable seat, with no seat mates, watching the scenery cruise by with the sounds of New Radicals (Get What You Give), Shakatak, Norman Connors' It's Your Life, Michael Bublé's version of Come Fly With Me and Janet Jackson's "When I Think of You" . . . . . .

change of scenery

Today I moved into another apartment. When I booked the one I usually stay at, I was only able to get it for part of the time. This morning the owner came to transfer me to a larger apartment in a residential area. Where I had an array of every kind of store imaginable, an outdoor market, great restaurants and cafés, I now am situated off a large, busy street. My apartment door is next to the apartment bldg garbage cans and the courtyard view described on-line is actually a view of the street with people walking by who can watch me cook, eat, sit on the sofa, or sleep in the bedroom. Every few minutes I hear the rumble of the metro passing by those same windows. Already I miss all the little nooks and crannies and the general ambience of the other apartment. Not to mention the multitude of metro lines to take to get anywhere now. To get to the metro you walk up and down at least 50 stairs just to get to the platform. The two just can't be compared. There is a bakery next door and the owner tells me it's excellent. Gonna make the best of it.

Today I went to a Welcome To France event at the Louvre. It was really nice with lots of booths and information about American and British citizens moving to France. Had some great presentations including a demo from the Cordon Bleu but missed it to take a walking tour of Jefferson's Paris. I've got to tell you, history class was never this interesting. After the 2 hour walk, I returned to the event to hear about how to start a business in France. Very informative.

Tomorrow I head to Belgium for the day via the train.

return to Angers

Did a dry run at the train station the day before my trip to Angers; Timed how long it took from apartment to the metro and then the connection from the metro to the train station. The guy at the information desk found me amusing but was helpful anyway. The next day no problem getting their or having my Eurail pass validated. Arrived early so had time to check out how it's done and watched the other travelers. What I didn't notice is that you have to validate your ticket in a machine before you board. Got a little confused there but someone helped me with that. Found the correct coach car, some trouble with the seat number then at last I found my place and settled in.

Last time I went to Angers I barely made the train. In a panic, I paid no attention to the coach car number or even knew to look for one. I boarded the wrong car, sat in the wrong seat but was lucky that that car was actually going to Anger and I was only one coach car from the right one. Some trains break apart on head in different directions so thank goodness someone was watching over me.

This ride would be non-stop -- about 1 1/2 hours. Easy. When I arrived in Angers I was surprised to find myself become overwhelmed with excitement. Last time, the first night I stayed at a hotel in town right across from the train station then went to a private chateau for 3 days. The chateau is far too expensive this time and being in the city has its advantage. Two things I wanted to do last time but didn't was to go to the Cointrea museum/facility and visit the Chateau d'Angers, an amazing medieval castle with a huge tapestry depicting the Apocalypse.

Stayed at the same hotel as last time (conveniently across from the train station). My room was very nice but 1/2 the size of the one I stayed in the first time. Not only was that room bigger, but it had a beautiful view of the square, fountain and train station. Oh well. Wouldn't be spending much time there anyway. Although it was only about 11am they were able to check me into my room so I freshened up and off I went for my day in Angers (pronounced aun-zhay).

First stop was the tourist bureau. I had e-mailed them before I left but got no reply. Bought a city pass good for 24 hours which was perfect; then asked about the Cointreau museum, the bus to get there, and how to book an evening cruise down the river (too bad, only in summer). From what I understood, the museum closes at three so I hurried to the bus to get there by noon for their 2 hour tour. Not too tough finding how the bus worked ... some trial and error but I made it. Walked into the museum to find out that their tours are at 10:30 and 3 each day. Mistook these times as open and closing times. Wish my French was better.

.......Ran out of time and got cut off. Kept getting this in Japanese and lost precious ($) internet time. Will complete when I return.

Much to do

Bonjour!

Comment allez vous?

I am pretty much doing what I set out to do. There are so many things I have not done yet and so many I wish to do again. It's not easy to choose. I think I planned too much away from Paris this time. But you're better off with a plan or you will lose precious time.

Saturday was orientation day; notice more bicycles in use; more cigar smoking, less cigarettes; far more people out and about.

HISTORY / MOVIE
Sunday I slept in late, shaking off jet leg and feeling good with the extra sleep. Took a walking tour of an area important in the the French Revolution -- "Reign of Terror". The area back then was farmland outside the city limits. This is where it ended; not at the Bastille or Place du Concorde because it was very hot and all those bodies and all that blood smelled up the city so they buried many of the bodies out there in mass graves. Pretty horrific stuff. After this fascinating tour I thought it would be perfect to go see the movie Marie Antoinette. I dozed off from time to time and found it disappointing. It was much like Lost in Translation where nothing much happens and the story and characters are superficial. I prefer movies that I can find a connect with or draws me in to that world.

FOOD
Monday most museums and stores are closed so I walked around a new area to explore then to L'Orangerie Museum which just opened again after renovations. I have waited 16 years to return but the lines were crazy, even 3 hours before closing. Learned its best to make reservations. So I strolled down rue Royale to Laduree for afternoon tea. Instead of the usual tea, I tried a new one. It is the best tea I have ever tasted and I have tasted a lot of tea. Thé Jardin Bleu Royale. I bought some to make at the apartment along with the requisite macaroons. The new flavor this time is ginger lime. After, I walked further down rue Royale to place de la Madeleine where two of Paris' most famous food stores are located -- Fauchon which had tasty looking prepared foods to buy and Hediard where I purchased some cherry jam for my breakfast bread and a small tin of their house tea to try. Went home early 'cause I needed to do laundry. FRIENDS is still very popular just like home with reruns on multiple stations. Also caught the news about the Amish school slayings. So tragic.

FASHION / TV TRIVIA / GOURMET TREAT
Today I took a morning walking tour through part of the Fashion district. Most of the time we stood in front of the stores and were given background history but we did go inside Dior and Prada, something I don't think I would have the nerve to do on my own. Prada was okay but Dior was fabulous. Remember when Carrie Bradshaw entered the store and fell flat on her face? And the exclusive hotel where she stayed with "The Russian" was just up the street from there. At Dior I found a few very nice pieces of jewelry I would like and priced reasonably but considering I am not working right now, not a very practical move. Next time. Nearby was Alain Ducaisse's restaurant Spoon, Food + Wine where I had a fabulous lunch -- Chef's Choice; a sampling from the menu in small portions chosen by the chef. Fun way to sample lots of yummy dishes. Doing practical errands this afternoon and getting ready for my trip to Angers tomorrow.

A tout a l'heure!